The Old Mine Cut, sometimes referred to as the Antique Cushion Cut or Old Cut, was the predominant diamond shape from the 18th century through the early 20th century. Unlike modern cuts that are shaped by precise, computer-guided technology, the Old Mine Cut was crafted by hand with skill. It’s said to be the precursor to the modern brilliant cut, with its origins dating back to the 1700s in Europe, particularly during the Georgian and Victorian eras.

The Old Mine Cut was a direct result of the limitations of cutting technology in the pre-industrial era. It was developed during the time when diamonds were hand-cut with rudimentary tools—there was no advanced machinery or laser cutting yet, so diamond cutters relied on their experience and artistry.

The term "Old Mine" refers to the old diamond mines of Brazil, which were the primary source of diamonds during this time, but the cut also has ties to India, where diamonds were historically first mined.

While every Old Mine Cut diamond is unique, there are several defining features that set these stones apart from their more contemporary counterparts:

Shape: One of the first things you'll notice about an Old Mine Cut is its shape. Unlike the sleek, symmetrical round brilliant cuts we’re familiar with today, the Old Mine Cut is more cushion-like, with rounded edges and a slightly squarer outline. This shape is part of what gives the diamond it's antique charm.

Cut: The Old Mine Cut typically has fewer facets than modern cuts, but the facets it does have are broader and deeper, contributing to a distinctive brilliance. The cut tends to have a larger culet (the flat facet at the bottom of the diamond), which enhances the stone's depth and unique light play.

Sparkle: Old Mine Cut diamonds are known for their softer, warmer glow compared to the high-intensity brilliance of modern diamonds. Their unique faceting creates a subtle, romantic sparkle that’s often described as a “vintage fire.” It’s less sharp but deeply captivating and looks stunning in candlelight. 

Larger Table: Compared to modern diamonds, the Old Mine Cut tends to have a larger table (the flat top surface of the diamond). This gives the stone a slightly more pronounced visual presence, making it appear more substantial.

Depth and Character: Because they were cut by hand, Old Mine Cut diamonds were shaped to maximise the unique qualities of the individual stone. This means that each diamond has its own set of quirks and character, from slightly off-center facets to unusual proportions, adding to the charm and history of the stone.

The Old Mine Cut was primarily used during the late Georgian, Victorian, and Edwardian periods, but it reached its peak during the Art Deco era, before being gradually replaced by the modern round brilliant cut in the 1920s and 1930s. These diamonds were often set in intricate, handmade settings and featured in engagement rings, earrings, necklaces, and brooches.

By the 1920s, technological advances in diamond cutting led to the development of the round brilliant cut that we are familiar with today. With the advent of new, precision-cutting tools, diamonds could now be shaped more symmetrically, allowing for greater brilliance and fire. As a result, the Old Mine Cut gradually fell out of fashion in favour of the more sophisticated round brilliant.

However, during the transition period, the Old Mine Cut was often used for high-quality diamonds, as it was still able to showcase the stone’s natural beauty in a way that many modern cuts couldn’t quite replicate. In fact, many diamonds from this time that were originally cut in the Old Mine style are now highly prized by collectors and antique jewellery enthusiasts.

Because they were cut by hand, no two Old Mine Cut diamonds are exactly alike. Unlike modern diamonds, which are cut to precise specifications, the imperfections in an Old Mine Cut give it a distinctive personality. Each one carries its own distinct character and story—whether it was passed down through generations or uncovered in an estate sale, these diamonds hold a timeless charm.

There’s something undeniably romantic about a piece of jewellery with a past. Old Mine Cut diamonds bring a sense of history and nostalgia.

Many people are drawn to the warmer, softer glow of Old Mine Cut diamonds, as opposed to the bright, sharp sparkle of modern diamonds. The light play in these stones is often described as more enchanting, creating a romantic and timeless effect that modern diamonds can’t always match.

Antique diamonds, such as the Old Mine Cut, are among the most environmentally conscious choices you can make. By opting for an antique diamond, you’re not only reducing the demand for newly mined stones but also minimizing the environmental impact associated with diamond extraction. You’re supporting the circular economy, giving new life to materials that have already been created, and contributing to a more sustainable future.

Finding the perfect Old Mine Cut diamond jewellery takes patience and expertise, but that’s all part of the fun.

At Charlotte Sayers, we’re proud to offer a beautiful range of antique jewellery set with stunning Old Mine Cut diamonds. Of course, there are a few other places where you might find these exquisite pieces. Gray’s Antiques Market, located near Bond Street Tube station in London, is home to many antique dealers, several of whom specialise in jewellery featuring the magnificent Old Mine Cut.

There are also numerous reputable dealers online, but be sure to buy from a trusted source, and always feel free to ask for a detailed condition report before making your purchase. 

If you ever need help or have a question, please feel free to get in touch.

We are always happy to help.